My editor among others recently attended a hash (something nasty involving
exercise and excessive beer drinking) on the Malaysian border and came back
with stories of such debauchery I had to find out the truth for myself.
I know many of you routinely take the long road south to Sadao and Padang Bazaar
to get that three monthly stamp. I must admit that in the past this has all
been a bit of a blur. My memories are always somehow erased from my mind, almost
as though I had not been there at all. Now I can talk with confidence about
the bridge over the road, the duty free in the middle and the Malaysian immigration
form, even if some of the details of the night’s activities are a little
blurred.
The border town is right on the border, some 15 kms south of Sadao, just keep
going to the border (drive though a lorry inspection area). There is an area
of newish buildings with more and seemingly more buildings being built. I was
told to head behind the 7/11 on the West side of the road and I would find a
hotel. There are dozens of small hotel and guesthouses. We stayed in PS
Mansions, which was 600 Baht, and was better than the Jojo
Court next-door that was 450 Baht.
The area we were interested in is only a few blocks, on both sides of the road
although the West side seemed to have more to offer. The buildings and streets
are basic and confusing. Confusing because having been sent here by the mad
hashers I was sure that beer in vast quantities would be readily available.
Then with rooms secured and a long drive behind us the one thing we desperately
needed was a beer. However we could not find a sign that said that simple but
inviting word “bar.”
I thought a saw such a sign, but when I closed on the area it seemed to evaporate,
then I saw a sign on a pillar, ‘Barber’ it said, still no bar. However
I discovered later that right next door to the Hollywood No Bra Bar is the ‘Bottle
Bar’, which does sell bottles of beer – big and small, but it is
a sit-outside-in-the-street place and obviously with no air-con!
However there were plenty of strange cafes with blacked out windows and doors
guarded by nefarious persons, some male some female, who wanted us to go inside.
But it was early and a beer first was our single thought. When all else failed
we accepted the inevitable and trundled into the Hollywood No Bra café.
Inside it was dark, with a bright stage on which ladies sang. We were led to
a table and as our eyes became accustomed to the gloom we realised we were in
a large room, with stage and service-only style bar. We were sitting on high
stools at high tables, as were most others. We ordered a Heineken and a Carlsberg
and were rewarded with two large bottles. This we quickly discovered was the
norm, large bottles only, but at about the same price the Crown Group (Nana
Plaza) sells small bottles for! I could see why those hashers would like it!
Now we had discovered the secret of the café we tried several more. Apart
from the large bottles, the music was normally deafening and the girls over
friendly. Sit down and you got a companion. Driving them off required a scowl,
stopping them from topping up your beer glass, or drinking from your bottle.
In addition to refusing to buy them a lady drink (50/60 Baht), prohibiting them
hanging on to any of your body parts was de rigueur. Then after about ten minutes
of trying they would slink off.
Every drink produced a bill and a scowling waiter who would not go away ‘til
that bill was paid! The punters were 90% Malaysian and the border is awfully
close, but I barely imagine somebody running for the border being pursued by
an irate waiter brandishing an unpaid bill. Then I remember all those beer-drinking
runners who had assembled here a few weeks earlier. Were they to blame for the
close attention the waiters paid?
We tried a few more cafes and then went looking for food. This was clearly not
an area of silver service and haute cuisine; on the contrary it was an area
of basic Thai and Malaysian food served in a shack. A European hygiene inspector
would have had a fit. There was plenty of seafood on display in these street
stalls but in the end we settled for the only proper looking restaurant we could
find. It was a very basic Chinese place and no sooner had we sat down than a
couple of girls suggested they might help us with our repast. They were driven
off quite easily. Of course every hotel and lodging place has a massage parlour,
thus there are girls hanging around the lobbies of most of these establishments.
Sated we did a further trip around the cafés. The more memorable were: The Border Club (on the main drag) a large place where some
good looking girls provided a go-go show. Champions Café was another smaller go-go where the odd
girl reluctantly removed part of the final covering layer. The Sha La La was in effect a large karaoke with a show involving
many. This was also very busy and had a really good atmosphere. Winner Café was my final visit and here there was a
real buzz with two go-go areas. On one stage the fig leaves were removed and
did I spy an almost lesbian act? Well that is certainly what it looked like.
I think they need Ricky to do the choreography bit. The girl I bought a drink
for was a trifle over relaxed as she staggered into me. But she promised plenty
and I thought I would return later.
This is where it went pear shaped. I had arranged to meet the original Baron
in an open-air type bar (the only one) that featured live music. Although the
Tan Tan was run by some pleasant people unfortunately the band
was barely an attraction. After a couple of beers we set out once again for
a serious review of the cafes. But disaster had struck. It seems the cafés
close at about 10.30; just the time we were listening to some badly played rock
standards. All those little girls we had marked out for a later lady drink failed
to get their commission.
Surprisingly there were not many girls patrolling the streets but I discovered
the reason for that later.
The only places left open were dozens of small karaoke joints. This was something
totally new and alien to me. Eventually I was persuaded inside one and fell
into conversation (but no singing) with an interesting lady from Korat. The
back of the establishment linked up with a café on the parallel street.
Now I think I knew where the un-booked out girls were. If not, most of the girls
seemed to sleep in house and the doors were locked. I was able to arrange that
the lady from Korat should guide me home paying a “booking fee”
of 1,500 Baht. “I get 1,000,” she said, “and that is good
for me.”
When I went to leave in the morning she wanted to stay in my room until noon
as she was locked out of her room. The hotel seemed to think this request was
not unusual.
I shall return!
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