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Sihanoukville Sihanoukville is the main beach resort of Cambodia being three hours south of Phnom Penh. In recent history Sihanoukville was much used by NGOs when the capital was still a dangerous place. When the place flourished the existing hotels were full. The result was a hotel building spree that now looks a tad optimistic. The road between Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville is, by Cambodia standards, a very good road. Anyone who has been on the roads in Cambodia will be aware of the “interesting” driving practices. The main rule seems to be that big is right. Lorries over take where they want and it is bad luck if a little car happens to be coming the other way, even if it is a blind brow of a hill. The only reason, I suspect, there is not carnage is the general lack of traffic. If the Cambodians can ever, on mass, afford vehicles, then some things will have to change. Sihanoukville is billed as a beach resort, but is also a major port but in reality, at the moment, it is a casino resort. There are four casinos around Sihanoukville and they are all expanding. Casinos are the businesses that keep the place going. The casino visitors mainly come from nearby countries. The beaches, which are about a mile from the town centre, look very usable and are extensive. There are a few hotels on the beach and they appear to be a cut above the town centre hotels. The problem with the beach is that transport to the town center bars is difficult unless you have your own, or want to risk a moto (small motor bike taxi). There are plenty of small hotels in the centre of town and the level of business is such that it is extremely unlikely that you will fail to find a room. These are cheaper than the hotels at the beach.
Sihanoukville centre will not inspire those aspiring to a party. There are four small ex-pat run bars close together. The Angkor Arms says it is a Brit pub but is owned, and run, by a Dutchman called Burt. This is the only bar with aircon, and that is about it’s main attraction. The nearly next door Small World Pub is a good little operation with clean interior and the manager, Suravona from Sri Lanka, tries hard to get it all right, and mainly does, which is more than I can say for his near next door neighbor. The Moonshine bar is bit of a hole in the wall, on the other side of the Angkor Arms, and has a few freelancers hanging around. The bar would need a great deal more action to get its customers drunk enough to appreciate the girls on offer. Directly opposite, the Moonshine, is Mick and Craigs friendly café/bar, which is open all day and therefore used as hangout by bored afternoon drinkers.
After dark for those who want to play, other than in the four uninspiring bars I have mentioned, there is some action around the town but it needs finding. There is a rumor that a Pattaya bar owner is about to open a fun friendly bar, but until he does the option seems to be the many karaoke bars. However around the back is a narrow unmarked street, near the beginning of Omui road, with small rickety homes of waving ladies on either side. At the top of the street is a large new property where massage and much more is offered. Also at the top of Sopheakmongkol East road is a Vietnamese operated massage parlour. But the fun place is in the port area. Biba is up a very rough road. A road of wooden houses occupied by young ladies who seek attention as you drive by. But ignore them Biba is a new experience. The signage promotes Johnny Walker Black Label whisky and proclaims that Biba is a disco and a massage parlour. Confusion will strike any first time visitor. There is a dance floor with a very good sound and light system, and between the door and the dance floor is seating. The dance floor is populated exclusively by girls dancing, most of whom wear a number. However they seem to ignore the seated males ogling them. The waiting staff will happily serve drinks, but they are very unhelpful with regards to the ladies. I sat and wondered what the hell was going on. Then I noticed a couple of men come in and walk straight through to the back. I went to the back and all I found was a typical Asian loo. But the men had gone. They were not in the toilet area. It was a little like a mystery film, I explored these uncomfortable comfort rooms and found a way to a back area. Here was a line of massage rooms and a reception. The sign announced that this was a “dancing massage.” The system is you watch the girls dancing and then, having selected a masseuse, go to the reception with your request. A one hour massage is $4. So that was my exciting 24 hours in Sihanoukville. Has potential but got a long way to go before it will be worth a detour.
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